Quilting - Mitered Corner Binding Instructions - Part Two - Attaching Mitered Corner Binding

Quilting - Mitered Corner Binding Instructions

Part Two - Attaching Mitered Corner Binding 

As a continuation of Part One where we made the Quilting Binding strip, the following is how we now attach the binding strip to the quilt. 

 First we are going to attach the binding strip to one side of the quilt. I choose to start on the right side of the quilt because that just seems to be the natural place to start for me. you can start your attachment on any side of the quilt you feel comfortable with.

When attaching the binding strip, which has been folded and ironed in half, you will be placing the raw edges of the binding strip towards the raw edges of the quilt. The folded edge will be away from the edge. You will note in the following picture my finger is between the layers of the binding strip, this is to show that it is the raw edge side of binding strip being placed at the raw edge of the quilt.

In the next picture you will see the binding strip up against the edge of the quilt.. Now we need to have a bit of discussion as to where in that side to place the binding strip.

Because this will also be the side where we will finish the binding after attaching the binding all around the quilt, we need to make room for the finishing seam which joins the two ends together.

At this point, I figure out where the center of that side of the quilt is, just eyeballing it. I don't do any heavy measuring. This is where I lay the end of the Binding Strip, with the raw edges of the Binding strip lined up with the raw edge of the quilt. But I do not pin it down. Why? because you need that loose Binding strip tail that is not attached to the quilt to sew the ends together at the end of attaching the Binding strip. You wouldn't be able to do that if you had sewn the tail down.

So I will repeat put the end of the binding strip about center of the side of the quilt you are starting on.  Then visually figure out what point is halfway between the center of the quilt and the corner of the quilt, for me that is about quarter way up from the corner. This is where you start pinning the Binding strip to the quilt, this is also where you will start sewing your Binding strip to your quilt. You start sewing where the first pin is.

You will note in the pictures you don't see my pins, because I do not pin, I have been sewing for around 44 years and don't pin very much. you pin or don't pin as you see fit. It's your call on that.

In this picture you will see that I have placed the quilt and binding strip in place under the presser foot of my machine. My hand is holding the tail of the binding strip that is not going to be sewn down, just so you can see how much I left unsewn.

Start sewing towards corner with a 1/4" seam allowance.

Stop your machine with needle down a couple inches from the corner. We need to mark our binding a 1/4" from the end of that side of the quilt. This is where we will stop sewing. We do not sew off the end. We need the room to make our mitered corner.

In the following picture you will see me use the 6.5x6.5 square up ruler to mark the binding. That mark will be where I will stop sewing. [There isn't any quilt police you can use anything you have to measure 1/4" from the edge of the quilt, you don't have to use the same ruler that I did]

Once marked continue your sewing down to that mark and stop.

 When you meet that mark you should take a few stitches backwards to lock that point. I have my machine on a tight stitch of 1.80 so I don't use the locking stitch, you do whatever you wish to make sure the stitch does not come open as we make the mitered corner.

Once you have made your locking stitch remove your quilt from under the presser foot, so we can make the mitered corner.

Taking the tail of the binding strip and pull it straight up above the side you just sewed. As in the picture below.

Make sure that the binding strip is straight up and even with the side of the quilt you are going to sew down next. [See picture below]

Once you have the binding strip straight up, finger press the diagonal fold made. [see picture below]

[ Yes I have a cut on my finger and it looks a bit messy as I was still bleeding when I put the super glue on it, sorry. I didn't cut my finger sewing, I cut it while dicing veggies for soup.]

Now you have the binding strip straight up and the diagonal fold finger pressed, bring the binding strip straight down. Creating a fold right at the top edge of the quilt where you see my finger in the below picture.

Line up the binding strip raw edges with the quilt raw edges.

Place your quilt and binding back under the presser foot of your machine. You will start sewing on the top edge where the fold is [where my finger was in the last picture].  You will not start 1/4" down, you will start sewing at the edge, and a 1/4' from the right side. Creating you a 1/4" seam allowance as you sew down that side.

Repeat these instructions to sew and make your mitered corners for the other three sides, coming to the last side of the quilt, which is also the side we started on.

After making the 4th mitered corner, and would begin sewing down the last side, STOP and visually figure out what would be the point to stop your sewing. This point to stop should be about a quarter of the way down that side of the quilt. at "minimum" you will stop sewing once you get pasted the mitered corner you just made. Sew from the top edge down to that quarter mark.

When you have sewn to that quarter mark of the quilt. backstitch to secure stitching, in preparation to do the final seam of the binding attachment.  Remove quilt from presser foot on your machine.

We will now do the finishing work to finish off the binding attachment.

Right now you have two tails of the binding strip loose on one side of the quilt. [The same side that you started attaching the binding strip.]  According to how big your quilt is, will be how much of a gap you will have between the two ends of the Binding strip, and how much room you will have to sew these binding strips together.

I had you stop sewing a quarter of the length of the quilt, from the last mitered corner, and the beginning strip is about a quarter of the way from the opposite corner of the quilt. This leaves a lot of room to work if you're doing a full size quilt or larger. In smaller quilts or table toppers or runners, or mug rugs etc you will have very little room to maneuver. So at this point you need to be careful how far you sew down because you want plenty of room to sew your binding together.

Lay your quilt horizontally in front of yourself with the binding tails to the right and left sides of center, NOT laying it with it going away from you. Fold the two Binding strips back towards the corners as in the picture below.

 Lay and smooth the right hand binding strip down the length of the quilt going towards the left hand binding strip. Should the right hand binding strip go past the sewn point of the left hand binding strip cut it off where it bumps against the left binding strip. ONLY Cut the right one, so it lays flat under the left binding strip.  [see picture below]

Once you have trimmed the right hand binding strip, lay and smooth down your left hand binding strip over the top of the right hand binding strip.

Now we need to have a discussion so this next part is understood better...

We are going to trim the left Binding strip so when it is sewn to the right Binding strip it will lay perfectly without having to rip it and redo it again..

Your binding strip is 3" wide if you used my size binding, or 2.5" if you used the "standard" size binding. But there isn't any quilt police so what ever size you chose is how wide your binding strip is "Before" you folded it in half and pressed it.  And this is how much overlap we will need to trim the Left binding strip to.

BUT there is an easy way for it to be perfect with out measuring and marking. Take the end of your Left Binding strip, unfold it and lay it underneath the right hand side binding strip, as you see in the picture below.

Then lay your left binding strip over the top of the Right Binding strip [which is laying over the unfolded binding strip tail.]

With your left Binding strip laying over the right Binding strip and unfolded Binding tail. Take a ruler and make a clear mark across the Left Binding Strip, following the edge of the unfolded Binding strip tail. See picture below.

As you see in the below picture, you now see the mark you made on the Left Binding strip. [The left Binding strip is laying over the Right binding strip and the unfolded Binding strip tail.] 

Now here is the scary part!! Don't freak out and panic... It scared me the first time, but I promise you that this will come out perfect, pull up the boot straps and trust this will be ok!!! ha ha ha

Ok now we take our scissors and we are going to cut on that line we just made on the Left Binding Strip. All the way across, removing the extra binding that will no longer be needed.

In the picture below you will see me cutting with scissors on the marked line across the Left Binding strip.    ONLY THE LEFT BINDING STRIP!!! Not Both binding strips.. ONLY the left binding strip!!   Got that??? ha ha

Ok now pull the Binding Strip tail and the extra leftover binding strip away so you now just have the left and right Binding strips that have been trimmed to the perfect size.

Now time for another discussion, we are going to have to sew those two Binding strips together and you have this expanse of quilted fabric that is sandwiched with batting and batting, that the Binding strips are sewn to. This expanse of fabric makes it hard with just two hands to hold everything together when the quilted sandwich is wanting to lay flat. SO what we do is we take an make a fold in the quilted sandwich, and put a pin in it so that the two Binding strip ends  are closer together so we can pin them. With the quilted sandwich folded/pleated and pinned it no longer is pulling your two binding strips away from each other.

In the picture below you will see that I pleated or folded the sandwich and put a pin in it to hold it.

In the next picture you can see I turned the quilted sandwich so you can see that I have folded/pleated and pinned the fabric quite a bit to close the gap between the two Binding strips.

This is not going to be sewn this way, it is only pinned that way temporarily to help us sew the strips together. you only do this when your side of the quilt is large, if it is a smaller quilt or table runner or mug rug you may not need to do this to help you.

There is no quilting police, so you don't have to do this but I find it helpful.

Now you should have a easier time putting the ends of your Binding Strips together.

What we are going to do next is put our two Binding strip ends together. We will be putting them together Right Sides together, and sewing a diagonal seam across them. This is the same technique as when we sewed our binding strips together to make one long continuous Binding strip for the quilt in Part one of this blog post.

Take your two Binding strips, Opening them up so the full width is flat. Placing the Right Binding strip tail across the Left Binding strip tail end. You will place them right sides together.

You will place your Right Binding strip's end even with the side of the unfolded Left Binding strip. Then you will move the Right Binding strip so the side edge is even with the end of the Left Binding tail. [see picture below]

Note: How do you know which side is the "Right" sides for the "right sides together"? Remember you pressed your Binding strip in half with the "Right" side on the outside and wrong side was inside the fold? Ok when you unfold the Binding strip you are going to place the pointed fold side against the pointed fold side of the other strip. So on the outside you will see the valley of the fold [wrong side] when these are pinned together. Notice the valley of the fold in the picture below.

Once you have your two Binding Strip ends lined up, I pin in four places just to hold them. You may not pin, your choice.   In the picture below you see where I pin mine.

Also I do not mark the diagonal line from corner to corner because I have the "Sew Easy" guide that guides me, but you may wish to mark it so you can sew a straight line.

Again you may wish to draw a line from the upper left corner to the bottom right corner, but as you see in the following picture my "Sew Easy" guide shows me where I should be sewing.

Sew diagonally from point to point.

This following picture shows my seam line.   Remove pins.

Once the pins are removed straighten out your binding to see if it is "Perfect". Everytime I use this method it comes out perfect with no extra bulge because it is too long.. or buckle because it is too short. It is alway perfect. [see photo below]

Reopen the Binding Strip so you can trim the excess fabric off the corner.

In the following picture you see that I cut off the excess fabric. I cut 1/4" away from the sewn seam, giving it a 1/4" seam allowance. You can do this with a rotary cutter and ruler, or with a pair of scissors.

Refold your Binding strip and straighten so it lays flat. Align the Binding strip raw edge to the raw edge of the quilt. Sew, starting a couple stitches before where you stopped sewing earlier and continue stitching until you have sewn a few stitches past where you started sewing originally.

Ta Dah!!! Your binding is attached!!!  Now to finish this.

In the video's they tell you flip it to the back and sew it down.. They don't tell you how to make those mitered corners lay right and flat.

Discussion time again... In the following picture you are looking at one of the just finished mitered corners, and where you had folded the diagonal fold then sewn the binding to the next side is pulled open a bit. That part that is sticking up is now going to be pulled to the back. As well as the sides will be pulled to the back.

Points you need to ponder or remember; you will be dividing that Binding strip in half, not literally. But you will be distributing half the Binding strip to be on the front and half the Binding strip to the back. So when you fold it over, if you kinda squeeze your fingers on both sides of the quilt you can "Feel" where the seam is that you just sewed the Binding strip to the quilt. You will line your folded edge of Binding up with where you "feel" the seam on the front side. Doesn't have to be exact but close. Other wise your binding will be skinny on one side and too wide on the other.

Ok back to what we are doing.

Fold Binding towards the back of quilt.

Once you start folding it to the back you will see the perfect mitered corner on the front. [see picture]

Turn the quilt over and now you will be working on the back side. "Feel" for the seam where you sewed your binding on, or look and see if you can see your sewn seam.  That is where you want to fold your Binding to, so both sides of quilt will have the Binding evenly distributed.

NOW here is the Trick they don't tell you about....  Fold the LEFT side over First!!  ALWAYS Fold the Left side of the binding First!!!   Got that??? Left  <<<<  that way... ha ha  

It makes all the difference when you fold that mitered corner. Ok fold left side first then fold right side over it.

TA DAH!!!   Perfect mitered corner!!! Everytime!!! Pin or clip in place to hand sew on the back side.

Last discussion; Hand sew back side, machine sew back side.... I personally Machine sew the binding to the Front of the quilt, turn Binding to the back and hand sew the back Binding to finish. BUT... there are no quilt police, you want to machine sew the Binding to the back, flip to the front, and hand sew to front... go for it.   If you want to machine sew on one side fold over to other side and machine sew it to finish it.. so be it go for it.. all are your choices to make and none are wrong.

Have fun, hoped this helped.

Happy Sewing
Becky

Quilting - Mitered Corner Binding Instructions - Part One - Making Binding Strip

Quilting - Mitered Corner Binding Instructions

Part One - Making Binding strip. 

Please take note on photography, I took all pictures one handed with my cell phone. So it they are not the best please understand it is hard to shoot pics and sew!! 

   Today I was creating binding and attaching binding to a baby quilt and decided to post instructions as several have said it was so hard and thought I would share how I do it and get GREAT mitered corners every time. 

  First we need to make our "Binding". I personally use this technique on almost every quilt, pot holder, mug rug, table topper, table runner etc etc.. any thing that needs binding this is my go to way of doing it. 

  I make my binding out of strips the WOF [Width of Fabric from selvage over the fold and back to selvage]. And first thing you need to do is figure out how much binding do you need, and how many strips is that going to take to make that length of binding. 

So I am going to show you my formula and explain it. 

How many inches of binding do we need?

Example quilt measurements will be 49 wide and 50 long [don't ask how it got that size ..it just did!!!

So I will need binding on all four sides, so that would be 49 across the top, 49 across the bottom, 50 down the right side and 50 down the left side..... THEN I need fabric for my mitered corners. I saw one of the Quilting Guru's video and she said add 24 inches and your always safe. Guess what? I have yet to run short by using 24 inches on any quilt in Baby, Twin, Bunk bed, Full, Queen or King size. [IF I was doing a table topper or mug rug I just try to figure out what I will really use, for example if I am using 2.5" wide binding, I add that in twice for each corner then add 6 more inches. But this I only do on small stuff.]

Ok back to making Binding Strips. Ok so 49" + 49" + 50" + 50" + 24 = 222" of binding. 

How wide to make the strips?

Now how wide are we going to make these strips? The standard width of strips is 2.5". BUT.... When I am doing quilts, I just think 2.5" is a bit skimpy so I use 3" wide strips. 

[Why does it look skimpy? Well 2.5" gets folded and ironed in half so it becomes 1.25", then you put the raw edge against the quilt edge and sew it down with a 1/4" seam allowance, so you have now lost 1/4" in SA so that 1.25" becomes 1" then you fold that to the back, so you have 1/2" on each side. I just like it a bit wider, especially on any thing Full sized to King size.] 

With 3" wide strips you end up with .625" wide binding on each side. 

3" folded in half makes the binding 1 1/2" wide, Sew raw edge of binding to Quilt, loose a 1/4", Fold binding over to back leaves you .625" wide binding which is between a 1/2" and 3/4" and I just think that little 1/8" on each side looks better on bigger quilts. 

BUT There are no quilting police... you need to do it as wide or as narrow as you wish, it is your quilt and your piece of art. 

How many inches of binding do we get out of our WOF?

At the fabric store they will say the yardage is 45" wide. But you will need to cut the selvage off both WOF because you don't want to use selvage in your binding strips, or in your quilt at all. So that 45" WOF becomes 43" of useable fabric after selvages are removed... So my rule of thumb is that after selvages are removed 42" is what I count, any extra is just a safety amount and I don't count it. 

How many strips do we need for our quilt? 

We need 222" of binding, our WOF's length is 42". Formula for strips is: 

222 ÷ 42 = 5.2857 strips. Because I use a rotary cutter and matt, any partial amount above a solid number, I round up to next solid number. So we need 6 strips 3" wide to make enough binding for this quilt. 

[I am not going to get a pair of scissors and cut a strip .2857 long. I save any tails left over and use them when I am making multicolored or striped binding on another quilt. So it doesn't go to waste.] 

How do we make our binding strips, from the strips we cut?

  We will be sewing end to end our strips, but in a diagonal fashion. Why Diagonal?  By doing a diagonal seam the seam tends to disappear and not stand out. It also gets distributed over a wider space so not so bulky at the seam line. 

To make a diagonal seam in our binding strips, you place the ends of your two strips "Right sides together" like is shown in the following photo.  When placing them allow the bottom strip to stick out just a bit from the one on top. And allow the top strip to be a bit above the edge of the bottom strip. Secure with a Pin. 

[Why? because if you don't, when you sew them together there is more odds of it not being even when you open the sewn fabric. I have never figured out how come it does that, but I know every time I don't leave a bit above and a bit beside my binding is a little narrow on one side and you loose that to sew on.]

Now place your pinned binding strips on point where your needle will start sewing at the corner that is made where the bottom strip and top strip join. And you are going to sew to the opposite side where your seam will be centered on the bottom point.  

In the below picture I have a Sew Easy attached guide on my machine presser foot. The solid line on the guide is where my needle is going to sew and the dotted lines are 1/4" markings.    This Photo has an error, but I do not have a replacement and this binding is now on the quilt so I can't go back. BUT...  Notice at the bottom the solid line on the "Sew Easy Guide" is right on the point of the lower piece of strip... THAT IS NOT WHERE YOU WANT TO SEW!! [this is not a HST] ... Do you see to the Left <<<  of that point where the top and bottom strips create a notch? or inverted corner? That is where your seam is going to end. On the top you start at that point or notch. And your going to end at the bottom at that notch. You will see it sewn in the next picture. 

The next photo is an example of how it looks after I have sewn that diagonal line. See how you sew from the notch on top to the notch on the bottom... NOT from the corner tip to corner tip like in a HST.

"Proof" your diagonal seam. Pull your top binding strip over to the right where it becomes straight with the strip on the left. This is how it should look before trimming and pressing.

Now fold top strip back to original position, and we are going to trim off the right top corner leaving a 1/4" seam allowance past the sewn line.

On the photo below you will note I used my 6.5" x 6.5" square up ruler, because on two of the edges it gives a clear 1/4" line so you can measure your seam allowance.   In this instance I am lining up my 1/4" seam line on the ruler on top of the actual stitches. If you look closely you will see the sewn line under the line on the ruler.

Once it is aligned [ruler to sewn line] then I use the edge of the ruler and my rotary cutter to cut the excess off.

In the following photo you will see the excess cut away from the 1/4" sewn seam line.

Once you have trimmed the diagonal seam, you will need to "press your seam open".

Now lets discuss that.. "Press your seam open", which means you take your finger and open up the two sides of the seam allowance and with your iron you press those seam allowances towards the fabric strip they are part of. Which causes each side of the seam allowance fabric to lay towards its appropriate strip, and the sew seam balanced between them.

Another way of pressing the seam allowance is to press both sides of the seam allowance to one side. Problem with using that technique on binding strips, is that it adds bulk and a bump in your binding strip when sewn down.

Now repeat attaching your binding strips together with diagonal seams, as you did the first one. when finished you should have 6 binding strips sewn together with diagonal seams.  

Once all strips are sewn together, it is time to form our binding strip. To do that you will need to fold your binding strip in half "wrong" sides together [Right sides on out side]. Then press down the entire length of binding strips. 

You now have made your binding strip to use on the quilt. In Part Two We will attach and finish the binding strip on the quilt.

Happy Sewing!

Becky 

 

Can you use a Bed Sheet for the backing of a quilt?

Can you use a Bed Sheet on the back of a quilt as backing fabric? 

  Yes you can, but it will be harder to work with. If you take it to a Long Arm quilter to quilt they may refuse that type of backing. Why is it harder or not wanted. Sheeting has a thread count that is double what quilting or clothing fabric has in it.
  In regular cotton sewing fabric it has 250 threads per inch going from selvage to selvage [Weft, Crosswise grain], but only has 40 threads per inch going the length of the fabric [Warp, Lengthwise grain].  The Warp grain treads are  held very tight and ridged when the fabric is being made. the Weft threads just weave between the Warp threads and are loosely laid there.

In Bed Sheeting, the Warp and Weft threads are the same according to the count.. example 800 count sheets are 800 threads in each direction per inch.
   Ok so why is it hard to handle? Because the Long Arm Quilters needles and the Sewing machine needles have to actually break the thread to get through it, leaving holes. But with regular Sewing or Quilting Cotton fabric the needles go between the threads. Hand sewing with a needle in sheeting is really hard to do.
  Is there an exception to this? Yes if it is a old worn cotton sheet. But do you want a old worn out sheet on the back of your quilt to fall apart??
  So again can you? Yes, totally your choice. But I won't. I have already tried to sew through a sheet by hand and it was a pain.

Happy Sewing!
Becky

June Tailor, Perfect Half-Square & Quarter-Square Triangle Ruler

Perfect Half-Square and Quarter-Square Triangle Ruler.

   I found this great Ruler to make the "Perfect" HST [Half Square Triangle].
In the picture below you will see that there is three parts to the ruler. On the left is the part that you line the solid line up with the diagonal points of your square. Then using a marking pen you draw the lines you will sew on. The middle section is where you square up your blocks, the right section is where you cut your diagonal line from point to point on the block.

To create the HST to use with this ruler. You create a block from 1 7/8" up to 6 7/8" square.

Now here is where we have to have a discussion. Say you want a block 2 1/2" inches when done then you have to take it up to 7/8" [2 7/8"] to accommodate what your going to loose when you sew the two seems and cut down the middle. Some say that is too hard.. so they say just add a inch and cut down. so if you wanted 2 1/2" you cut two blocks 3 1/2". once done they will need to be trimmed back down to the 2 1/2" .... 

WELL, today I used this ruler for the first time. and I didn't even have to trim it!! It was PERFECT!! 

But I did check it to be sure. 

So let me take you through the process.   In this first picture I have before hand cut two contrasting blocks that were 5 7/8". They are to finish at 5 1/2" 

Then I turned them on point, and laid the Ruler on the block. This is the left hand side of the ruler. 

I lined up the center line from point to point on the diagonal. 

I then used my Air erasing purple fabric marking pen, and marked down the two slots, that are on either side of the solid diagonal line on the ruler. 

  Then I placed the block on my sewing machine. I lined up the right purple marked line with my needle. [I am also using my neat "Sew Easy Guide" on my presser foot to sew straight lines, see another blog post for that]  

   

  Then I sewed down the line. After clipping thread and moving block so the needle was lined up with the left purple line, I sewed down that line. 

After sewing down the two purple lines, I then removed the block, and took it to my cutting board and the Ruler. Using the right side of the ruler I lined up the two purple lines with the dashed lines on the left. This leaves a cutting slot up the center.

Once I have it lined up I use my rotary cutter to cut up the cutting slot between the two purple lines on the ruler. This separates the two HST's.

  I then open the two squares and press open the the block.

  Then I take it back to my cutting mat and the ruler and I line up the diagonal sewing line on the diagonal line of the ruler.  Then I move it along the diagonal line until the two sides are even with the 5 1/2" cutting slots. To trim any excess or overage if need be. OH MY there wasn't any to trim!!

  Then I flip the Block around to check the other two sides, and lay the ruler on the block again. I line up the diagonal seam, and the sides moving it to match the 5 1/2" cutting slots... OH MY it is perfect again!!! ha ha   so I didn't have to trim and the block is a perfect 5 1/2".

  That is what I call a great ruler!!!  

  Now this is only one of a bunch of ways to do a HST. You are going to have to try what works for you and choose. I will be posting more ways to do them as they are one of the "GO TO" squares used in blocks.

Hope this helps.
Becky

Small Ironing boards

 Small Ironing boards

I like to be able to start sewing on a block or a quilt top and be able to sew, press a seam, trim an edge etc. all without having to get up and move to a different area to get those tasks done.

I have several "Ironing" areas and boards.
1. Ironing board that is in a cabinet that hangs on a wall. You open the door and the ironing board comes down. That board is great for tops and dresses and slacks. It is in the quest room.
2. Massive Ironing Board, that hides in my dining room closet or garage. When used I put it over the Dining room table. It is 3 feet wide and 7 1/2 feet long. It is a piece of plywood that has been covered with Ironing board fabric, batting and fabric.  It is wonderful to use to iron my quilt tops before putting them on the Long Arm to quilt. It is also fantastic to iron large things like table clothes etc that tend to get re-wrinkled after ironing on the typical ironing board once then go over the edge and land on the floor because they are so big.
3. Ironing board made from the top of a old Wooden TV stand. This is great for pressing squares. I have it under my  sewing counter that I can swing up and use as needed. but kinda big for just doing block seams.
4. Two small ironing boards for block seams.


The ones I want to show you were once again made by my husband for me. It is the Ironing board #4.

 We had a "Sleeve pressing board" from his mother. It was covered in a cream muslin fabric and very old. I had no use for it as is.   Here is a picture of one that is similar

I had him take the metal henge thing from between the two boards. Which left it as two small boards. I then had him cover the existing fabric with a layer of batting and some new fabric. He did this by stapling the batting and fabric around to the back. 

After I used them for a couple of days, I realized I needed a little one, as I was doing a gazillion HST [Half Square Triangles] That were 2 1/2" x 2 1/2"  and the bigger board was more in the way. 

So I asked him to cut it down to 6 inches and recover it. Which he did. 

The following picture is what I now have.

I LOVE THEM!!!   

I have my sewing machine on the right, and on the left is my cutting matt, to the back of the sewing machine I have my Iron plugged in and I lay the small or the longer board on the back of the cutting matt, and use the front to have my blocks/block parts sitting ready to sew, and small area for me to trim the block and the small ironing board towards the back so I can sew the seam, press it, trim it and move to the next with out getting up from my chair.. sure speeds up piecing blocks!

Hope this helps!

Becky

Sew Easy Guide by Sara Gray

     I found this new "Gadget" which I think I am going to like. It is called the "Sew Easy Guide" it is made by Sara Gray. I bought mine on line at "Erica's" and this is the page it is on about half way down:  http://www.ericas.com/quilting/tools/misctools.htm

  Ok why would I buy this gadget? Well it helps you with the "Scant" 1/4 inch seam.  This gadget is made to attach to your machine foot [with sticky] and lays across your fabric. Then you can line up your fabric to the dotted line and you can tell you're on the "scant" 1/4 inch seam allowance.

   Ok some pictures would help.  Here is the guide telling all the things you can do and also explains about the guide's markings.

  Basically it is a clear piece of plastic with black markings. There is a hole in the center top that you line up your needle to, while your sticking this guide to your presser foot. Then there are three lines of markings; two dashed lines and one solid line. 

   The dashed lines on the right and left are the "Line up" lines for your edge of fabric or from your point of sewing. The solid line is the line of sewing.  As you see in the below picture.

  As you can see in the next picture, I have a piece of fabric ready to sew and I have the right dashed line lined up with the edge of the fabric and you can see where the needle will sew by looking at the solid line on the guide

   And now you see once I move the fabric over to the left, the seam line I sewed using the guide. 

  In this picture you can see I have laid my 6.5x6.5 inch square up ruler on top of the sewn example.  I put the ruler where you can see the 4 1/2" line is on top of the sewing line.. and the 4 3/4" dotted line is a hair to the right of the edge of the fabric.  WHY??? Because it is a "Scant 1/4" seam" with this guide. That way when you press the seam allowance over to the side, your seam allowance will be perfect. 

Here is another view of the "Scant 1/4 inch" seam allowance

In this picture you can see me making a HST [Half square triangle} block. I have placed the left dashed line where it is lined up with the points/corners so the needle will be sewing down the right side [solid line on guide]. 

  And then you see when I move it to the left you can see the white thread of the seam that is to the right of the center for your HST.

  This enables you to sew your HST without drawing the diagonal line from point/corner to point/corner.  The next step would be to line up the dashed line on the "right" with the points/corners, which puts the solid line where the needle sews to the left of the dashed line that lines up with the points/corners. 

  This guide has instructions how to use it for quilting, for Triangles on the corners [snowballs], as well as HST and Quilt as you go seams. 

 Some may think this is a crazy gadget and not for them. We each need to find what works for us. I have the 1/4" seam guide with the wall, but if I don't keep it against that wall it isn't going to stay straight as I sew. With this gadget your not staring up at the foot your watching down that dashed line, and for me it seems easier to keep it lined up. But we all need to find what works for us. 

  I just got this today so we will see in the future if I decide its a keeper.. but for less than seven dollars it was a chance I had to take. 

Happy Quilting

Becky

PS!!!!!   Ok I have used it for piecing the top of my Wales Trip Quilt. and I love this little gizmo!!!   I absolutely love it. Works great and wow no trimming!!! I would recommend this tool for any one that is having problems sewing straight lines!!!